During my time in Elkins as an AmeriCorps, I’ve been motivated to explore different parts of WV and more of the state’s unique environment. Last weekend, I went camping at the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. In 2021, the New River Gorge was named the 63rd National Park, giving its lands, waters, and history national protection. Famous for its whitewater rafting, the New River was established as a national river in 1978 by President Jimmy Carter. The national park encompasses a narrow stretch along both sides of the New River, spanning 53 miles along the 360-mile river. The New River flows northward from the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina to join the Ohio River in Point Pleasant, WV (also home of Mothman).
On Friday night, we stayed at an Airbnb near the park in Beckley, WV and set up camp the following morning. Although it’s not explicitly related to the New River Gorge, the Airbnb was unexpectedly cool and historic. The architect and former owner of the house was Richard Kanakanui, who studied with Frank Lloyd Wright. In a relatively normal suburban neighborhood, the house was distinctive in its midcentury modern style and sleek wood and tan brick exterior. In addition to his Beckley home, Kanakanui was an architect of the Beckley Airport and the local high school.
After spending a night in the Airbnb, we picked up coffee from the Chocolate Moose in Beckley and drove to the park. We arrived in the morning and found several open camp sites. By evening, they were all occupied so it’s good to arrive early. We stayed at the Grandview Sandbar walk-in camp sites, which closely resembled the drive-in sites with a very short walk from the parking lot. The Grandview Sandbar, near Prince, WV, offered camping sites right next to the river. I haven’t camped in a decade and was a bit nervous, but the camp sites were easily accessible, pleasant, and free.
We set up the tent and set out exploring. First, we visited a hamlet called Thurmond. During the beginning of the 20th century, Thurmond was a small but bustling railroad town. Connecting the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway and the WV coal mines, Thurmond was prosperous. As automobile transportation popularized and C&O pivoted from steam to diesel locomotives, Thurmond’s economy declined. The buildings along the main drag have been preserved and signage paints a picture of what the town was like in its heyday. Today, the majority of the town is owned by the park.
From Thurmond we headed to the Stone Cliff Trail for a hike and a picnic lunch. The Stone Cliff Trail is about 2.7 miles one way out, and one of only two trails along the New River. It was a mostly flat hike with nice glimpses at the river, which had a steady flow of rafters and kayakers. The trail was lush with many different kinds of plants. We came across an interesting wispy, glossy fungus (pictured below), which I had never seen before. It didn’t look like something found in nature, almost like plastic. Later, I sent a photo to someone with greater plant knowledge than me, and she identified it as White Fungus. We also came across a couple black and yellow centipede-like bugs.
After the hike, we drove north to see the New River Gorge Bridge. When it was built in 1977, it had the longest arch in the world. Although it’s now the fifth longest arch, it’s imposing and striking against the expanse of green trees. Every October, the New River Gorge Bridge is the site of Bridge Day, an annual event for bungy-jumping off the 876 foot tall bridge. Near the bridge’s visitor center, there is a walkway (with many stairs) to an overlook below the bridge, offering scenic views of the bridge’s arch and the gorge below.
We drove to Pies and Pints in nearby Fayetteville and got a couple pizzas and a growler of local Bridge Brew. Although we went out to eat, most of the camp sites were equipped with grills and/or fireplaces that would be great for cooking over the open fire.
The next morning, we drove back into Beckley for a delicious lunch at the Omelet Shoppe before heading home. WV has profoundly beautiful and fun outdoor spaces with fascinating flora and fauna, and I’m hopeful that the national park designation will attract more people to the state. I was struck by how big the New River Gorge is, and I felt like I only experienced a fraction of what the park has to offer.
